The Island that Time Forgot
Photography by Annalise Falzon
A sense of mystery and silence hangs over Comino in winter. The cliffs stretch out magnificent, the countryside appears fresh and dewy, the waters surrounding it shimmer clear over pale sands. Occasionally a fisherman from Gozo can be seen in one of the caves on its edge, perhaps in Ghar Minka, where Brad Pitt recently appeared in Troy. At its centre, standing solitary and enduring, Santa Marija tower – which also appeared in The Count of Monte Cristo – looks back at the island’s past. The wind blows around the small island, rippling the waters, rustling around the cliffs, endowing it with a sense of mystery and loneliness which seems to look back to an age when only the wild and breathing countryside stirred throughout the gentle slide of the seasons.
Peaceful and hushed in winter, its waters shimmering in summer, Comino in fact offers a landscape changing slowly, in step with the seasons. With an area of a little less than three kilometres squared, no cars drive around on this little island – found midway in the channel between Malta and Gozo – and only four inhabitants reside on it. Spring is the best time for spotting rare orchids while the windswept garigue takes on the yellowish hue of the Shrubby Kidney Vetch. Equally stunning are the rusty reds of the everchanging Maltese Spurge – what look like autumn colours are actually the sign of spring coming to an end and the onset of the harsh dry summer. The scene is then left to the hardy dwarf shrubs of Mediterranean Thyme and its lilac-coloured expanses until the first days of autumn, which see an awakening of many bulbous plants such as the ubiquitous Sea Squill. Later on in the season, the small inland valleys will lure you to them with the intoxicating fragrance of the French Daffodil. The first rains also bring back to life one of the most characteristic plants of the island’s garigue – the endemic Maltese Spurge.
Here, very few visitors disturb the thriving wildlife and it is not unusual to see wild rabbits scurrying off to hide into old dry stone walls or to spot sun-loving reptiles such as the Western Whip Snake and Malta’s own endemic Maltese Wall Lizard. Autumn and spring also coincide with the great bird migrations, including majestic birds of prey such as harriers, falcons, and buzzards. The resident breeding birds include shearwaters, warblers, and Malta’s National Bird, the Blue Rock Thrush.
Best-known for the shimmering waters of the Blue Lagoon, Comino is a peaceful haven which is a pleasure to walk through and discover, especially in spring and autumn. The longest route – where no maps are needed but a sure foot is a must – is right along the edge of the coast, exploring every nook and cranny.
A shorter possibility is to set off from the Blue Lagoon in a clockwise direction, using the well-worn inland paths. Starting towards the idyllic Santa Marija Bay, pass by the abandoned old bakery at Il-Forn and stop by the fully functional medieval church dedicated to the Flight of Our Lady from Egypt. From here, proceed down to the bay with its bright pink police station and a stretch of sand – with some of the only sand dune remnants on the island. The Tamarisk trees offer precious shade while, behind them, lies a small copse of Chaste Tree – a rare species which flowers in summer. From here, a path leads up along Wied l-Ahmar (the red valley), home to an important bird-ringing project. At the top of the path, lies a quarantine farm for pigs and, adjacent to it, a rough path goes down towards the south coast, with its beautifully restored Santa Marija Battery lying above a natural cave and arch at Il-Mixta. This battery was erected in 1715 to protect the south Comino channel. From the battery it is easy to follow an old road dating back to the Knights’ which leads to the majestic Santa Marija Tower – which actually served as a prison during the French Occupation. Built in 1618, the rising tower formed part of a system of towers providing defence and communication between Malta and Gozo and a visit is highly recommended. The above route can always be done in the opposite direction to ensure enough time for the visit.
From here one can opt to walk past the old isolation hospital back to the Blue Lagoon or else take a more interesting diversion by turning towards the hilltop cemetery and then proceeding down and back to the start of the walk.
Whichever route you take, do keep in mind that this is a protected area and bird sanctuary – tread lightly. Wander around the paths and breathe in the spectacular views of cliffs and stirring seas at every turn – as well as the sense of timelessness and mystery which hangs so peacefully over the little island and the seas that surround it.
More information:
• BirdLife Malta runs a bird observatory and ringing station during the spring and autumn migration. Website: http://www.birdlifemalta.org/
• The heritage organisation Din l-Art Helwa is responsible for the Santa Marija Tower and Battery. The Tower is open from April to October on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 10.30 to 15.00 normally, when the flag is flying and on public holidays. Bookings may be made for visits by schools and other groups, as well for private functions. Please contact 9905 1866 or gozo@dinlarthelwa.org, website: http://www.dinlarthelwa.org/
• Nature Trust (Malta) has information booklets about Comino and a guidebook for walks (including Comino). More information: info@naturetrustmalta.org, website: www.naturetrustmalta.org
• Ferry boats to the island are seasonal and leave from Mgarr, Gozo; and from Marfa and Cirkewwa quays in Malta.
• Camping is allowed only in the camping area behind the beach of Santa Marija Bay.