Mdina - City of Echoes

Photo by Rene Rossignaud

There is an elegant fairytale quality to Mdina, a city of shade and echoes, where medieval lanterns still swing in the wind, streets afford glimpses of winding alleyways and magnificent views open up without warning.

Located 200 metres above sea level, a breeze always seems to stir in the capital’s hushed streets where, even in deepest summer, sunshine and shade appear to battle it out in the alleyways and squares. Very few cars are allowed access into the Silent City, once Malta’s capital, so the city retains its old-world medieval appeal, its sense of the past as vibrant as its present.

Yet, despite its rich contrasts and past upheavals, a peaceful atmosphere now pervades the capital’s old streets. Here, you can lose yourself in the city’s compact and winding streets, occasionally catching glimpses of the surrounding countryside from its gateways, or merely following the shadows, going where your fancy takes you.

The oldest city on the island, dating back to prehistoric times, the name Mdina derives from the Arabic word medina which signifies ‘city’. Mdina was fortified in medieval times, but its protection in early eras must have come from its high-ground location. A strong earthquake in 1693 destroyed a large number of buildings in the city, but upon their arrival in Malta, the Knights of St John aided its restoration, including the rebuilding of its impressive cathedral.

Standing in the middle of a large square, the cathedral – dedicated to St Paul – occupies pride of place in the old and beautiful capital. Dating back to the late seventeenth century, the cathedral was built on the traditional site of the house of the governor Publius, who received St. Paul when he was shipwrecked on Malta. But, there are also several other places worth a visit as you browse through the various streets.

Just inside the city’s main entrance, for instance, are the Mdina Dungeons and, next door, the islands’ Natural History Museum, housed in a beautiful old building. The Mdina Experience is a great introduction to the entire history of the city, an audiovisual spectacular on multi-lingual soundtracks. You could also try “Discover Mdina”, self-guided audio tours around the city, The Knights of Malta and The Medieval Times, a walkthrough exploring the Middle Ages. Other spots of interest include Vilhena Palace and Palazzo Falson. The Carmelite Church and Priory, right in the centre of the city and moments’ walk from the viewing area of the bastions, has recently been lovingly restored and has been opened to the public – it is well worth stopping by to take a look or have a bite to eat in its pretty coffee shop. Another attraction is Melita Trains, a sightseeing train tour.

The city offers several quaint restaurants and wine bars, perfect for whiling away the evening surrounded by centuries of electric atmosphere. Lastly, take an amble to the city edge and peer over the bastions – you will be rewarded with a magnificent bird’s-eye view of the islands.

“The main point of interest for a tourist in Mdina is the whole of Mdina,” says mayor Peter Sant Manduca. There has been a huge investment in the city’s economy in the last few years, he says, such as the paving project of the city’s streets, financed by government, which has given a proper and well-needed facelift to the city. New establishments have opened to the public and older commercial buildings have been wonderfully restored and refurbished. From museums to tourist attractions, from hotels to restaurants, from gift shops to wine bars or coffee shops, they all play an important part in Mdina’s economy, he says. “All this activity has given tourists the time to enjoy Mdina for longer than just half a day; there is so much more to see and do now than ever before.”

Yet, Mdina is also a great favourite with the locals, especially on wintry Sunday afternoons, when the city’s streets take on an atmospheric charm and the various wine bars and coffeeshops feel like cosy havens. Most of this appeal, as its mayor readily acknowledges, derives from its authentic sense of the past.

“Mdina is so unique since it is the only fortified city in Malta with a radius of the bastion walls still intact. In the last hundred years, most fortified cities on our island were subject to renovation, having parts of their walls torn open to make way for vehicle traffic or for public festivities. In the beginning of the last century Mdina had an additional gate constructed, which has blended in well with the rest of the architecture of our city.”

Add to this, its various palazzos, churches, convents and squares, as well as its unusual mix of Norman and Baroque architecture, some of which belong to private residences. One of this city’s most special attributes is that very few residents live here, and the majority of the families who do, have done so for generations.

At night, then, the city changes, says Mr Sant Manduca, its silence becoming thicker, its shadows darker, its echoes louder, its ambience even more elegant. “The atmosphere at night is truly magical,” says the city’s mayor, “with all the corner lanterns glowing onto the winding streets. The evenings bring on a nostalgic mood through the city, with a feeling of the past lingering in the air.” Eventually, as more of night draws in, the last shadows will flit down the alleyways like dreams and a hush will spread slowly over the city, covering it softly, as it settles peacefully for the night.