Hearts of Gold

Photography by Rene Rossignaud

Rich, flaky and golden, their cases bursting with soft filling, the trays of pastizzi come steaming out of the oven, and are kept warm before being dropped into crackly white paper bags. Offering comfort in a few bites, pastizzi come in the mellow colours of autumn and summer and, although I would not refuse them at any time of year, seem to taste particularly good in winter, with a cup of tea or coffee, preferably with the rain pouring outside as their soul-warming scent fills the cafes’ or bars where they are served.

Pastizzi, the Maltese name for cheese or pea cakes, have been around as long as anyone can remember; some things survive with good reason, it seems. At only a few cents each, they are the local version of “fast food”, little delicacies which have gone far beyond the realms of just “food” to become synonymous with an age-old custom and a way of life. Deadly (on the waistline) but truly delicious, they are traditionally made with light filo pastry and usually stuffed with soft ricotta cheese or peas. The best ones feel light, tasty and comforting, their pastry soft and flaky, their filling rich and warm, like having the essence of Malta in a mouthful.

These days you can happen upon them in most cafés and bars but, for the real thing, you need to head out to the town of Rabat, just outside Mdina. Like much else, the flavour of pastizzi tends to change with the surroundings and probably feels best eaten in traditional local settings.

One off-the-tourist-radar bar synonymous with pastizzi is Crystal Palace, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sort of place on the outskirts of Rabat, a spot brimming with so much tradition and so many colourful characters it will feel like a trip back in time. Despite its grandiose name, this is a tiny bar with a modest décor but, then again, perhaps it is this that makes it so special – there’s no pretence here – only friendly service and pastizzi of the highest calibre.

Owner Martin Azzopardi has been in the pastizzi-making industry for 40 years and it’s a family business that’s been handed down through the generations. “I’m not sure how pastizzi came to be a local delicacy but I know that my family have been making them for several decades. My father ran the business before me and my grandfather before him, all my memories are of this place. I was in my early teens when I first started working here and it’s been a passion ever since. I know that I could have had any career I wanted but, as my siblings had gone on to do other things, my father suggested that I keep the business going, and I was happy to. I have never regretted my decision because it is a lovely job to have.”

And yet, this little place with its modest fare and surroundings, works quite as hard as the busiest hotel. Crystal Palace stays open for 24 hours a day on most days, and closes for just eight hours a week. It is always bustling and people from different walks of life wander in and out grabbing a bag full of pastizzi or stopping for a leisurely chat and a “te fit-tazza” (tea in a glass) to sip at one of the small wall tables. All wave hello to Martin who bustles behind the bar preparing their orders; he knows what they want and quickly works through the queue with a smile on his face.

“We get a constant stream of loyal customers here every day of the week and they expect us to be here – so we are,” he says. “We get a lot of workers in here – people who work round the clock themselves, such as builders and taxi drivers – they stop by for an early breakfast or late night snack. Pastizzi is the traditional Maltese breakfast; the English have eggs and chips, we have pastizzi.”

The bar is also a popular late spot for teenagers and young people after a night out. “We are situated close to some of Malta’s bars and nightclubs and pastizzi is the snack of choice after a night out so we get busy in the very early hours too. Mid-morning is another active time, as well as lunch. Truth be told, it never gets very quiet, which is great!”

Even tourists have come to love Crystal Palace and Martin is thrilled when they come back repeatedly. “We’ve always had a good relationship with foreigners on the island; our shop was named Crystal Palace because the British soldiers who were stationed here years ago used to come from that part of the UK. They used to love eating our pastizzi so we decided to name our business after them. We give everyone the same deal here, we don’t cheat any one and all our customers get the same product and service for the same price. We go out of our way to make people happy and we know they appreciate it.”

So Martin’s days are consistently busy as he traipses between his bakery and busy shop, ensuring that he is satisfied with the standards upheld. “People trust us to give them the best pastizzi on the island and we are proud of that. Crystal Palace is synonymous with pastizzi in Malta because we use the best ingredients and people leave feeling light – not heavy, like you can sometimes feel after eating them.”

Martin himself has pastizzi three or four times a week – to ensure they are as good as always, you understand. What is the secret to getting them so perfect? Martin looks a little coy. “You’ll just have to come and experience them for yourself,” he smiles, “you won’t be disappointed.”