City of Secrets

Photography by Rene Rossignaud

Valletta takes on a magical transformation after the sun sets. Heaving with shoppers, lawyers and politicians during the day, at night its streets echo with secrets from the city’s past, its dark streets conveying a sense that anything might happen, where shadows morph into people and back into shadows again.

Recently in fact a few of the city’s spaces have been rediscovered and re-explored and theatres now find homes in unusual spaces, exhibitions hang out in pubs and the whole city seems to be in a constant state of metamorphosis where spaces double up as unexpected venues and constantly teeter on the edge of changing into something else.

St. James Cavalier, for instance, is a centre for creativity that seeks to promote local and foreign musicians, poets, dancers as well as thinkers, scientists and other creative individuals. It seems to be the point of exhibition for installation art, photography and video exhibits, as well as presenting foreign art films and theatre events. Local short-film directors seek to present their work here. During summer, Valletta also hosts an international short-film festival that is strongly establishing itself among local and foreign artists. Run by Kinemastik, a non-government organisation focusing on fringe film, the festival is held over several days in July, with most of the locations in the Valletta area.

Theatre seems to be the strongest cultural force attracting audiences to Valletta, simply because its theatre spaces range from intimate to opera to fringe activities. This year saw the opening of another theatre, City Theatre, that seems to cater for any kind of performance. However, the most respected (and established) of these theatres is the Manoel Theatre, an architectural and historic gem dating from the 18th century.
Europe’s third-oldest working theatre, the Manoel serves as the island’s National Theatre. The architecture is majestic; with excellent acoustics and a strong reputation for being professional and well-organised. Built in 1731, by Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena, the theatre has housed operas and theatrical and dramatic productions, with endless celebrities gracing its stage, including Boris Christoff and Sir Yehudi Menuhin.

Sometimes, however, these venues might be slightly out of the reach of young and upcoming artists who turn their imagination to exploring new spaces in the capital. A few years ago, for instance, Scaremongering, a group of young artists and writers, rented an old house in Valletta and created a memorable exhibition that was well-received. More recently, old theatre venues have also been used to showcase talented musicians who deem Maltese culture an infinite source of good music. Brikkuni, for instance, are strongly establishing themselves in the forefront of Maltese music. More importantly, they attracted hundreds of people to their recent gig at the lower end of Valletta.
Other event organisers seem to be using their relatively small venues to re-capture the identity of Valletta as an entertainment centre. The owners of Chiaro Scuro in Strait Street seem to have tapped into this, with great success. From a high-end coffee shop in the morning, the historic cellars seems to be regaining their war-time animation – perhaps not for sailors and war soldiers – but for students, lawyers and all those craving an interesting night out. On
25 February, Chiaro Scuro will be hosting Dazzle Entertainment’s take on the burlesque, bringing together dancing girls, singers, comedians and musicians that turns all social normality upside down with a true carnival spirit.
Another small venue is Two Twenty Two, which provides the opportunity for young people to wine and dine, while viewing art, listening to good music and watching live shows. Its avant-garde architectural design creates a dynamic space that has inspired artists to put up video art installations, illustration and art exhibitions.

The Arts Council in Malta also seems to understand the need to revitalise Valletta as a cultural capital. Their Notte Bianca or “Lejl Imdawwal”, usually held in October, attracts large crowds to the city, who flock to experience the lively buzz of street artists, live musicians and other activities. With most shops and restaurants staying open till late, the city truly comes alive till the early hours.

Around July, the Arts Council also organises the annual Malta Arts Festival, a terrific platform for different creative forms, such as theatre, dance, music and art. Centred around the Old Opera House and Freedom Square – with stages set up for the occasion – as well as the Mediterranean Conference Centre, the MITP theatre and St. James Cavalier, the festival brings together several high-calibre performances in a short period.

Jazz music in Valletta was first introduced in Strait Street and at the once famous (now closed) Cafe Premier in Republic Square, where many jazz formations were hosted. Since then, the jazz scene has flourished in Valletta, encompassing a variety of local talent as well as foreign musicians. The Malta Jazz and Rock Festival takes place on the third weekend of July of every year, but other well-attended jazz nights have been held at the Palace courtyard or at Victoria Gate on Friday nights throughout summer.

Even the peaceful atmosphere in cemeteries has been put to artistic use. Lying on the outskirts of the city, the Garden of Rest is an old British cemetery that was restored over a period of 10 years, with a small museum at the side. Records show that at least 528 people are buried there; the principal occupants are British servicemen as well as some Maltese, the most famous being Mikiel Anton Vassalli, known as the father of the Maltese language. On an evening, the garden has sometimes been used for cultural events, such as literary evenings and nature fairs and the beauty of the garden and its atmospheric lighting creates a magical setting for any event.